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#Eos backyard dslr iso#
The ideal iso for the 700D is 800, at a push 1600. Your iso is way too high for that camera, you will have a lot of problems with noise. Not only is it not needed, it will drain your batteries quicker. I will echo what says about noise reduction, turn it all off. If you decide you like imaging you can always change your gear at a later date. Still, early beginnings, use what you have and see how you get on.
#Eos backyard dslr software#
I don t use the DSLR much these days but when I do i find Canon Utility software which comes with the camera normally perfectly ample - certainly at the beginner stage.įinally to say, I presume the telescope comes with a 1.25" focusser, which means much of your DSLR sensor will be wasted. Of course you would need capture software. Capturing to the laptop also means it is easier to focus. The latter is difficult to read in the dark. You won't need focus to infinity if attaching to the telescope, focus with the telescope itself, and if you have one or can make one (cheap to buy anyway) a Bahtinov mask is easy to achieve focus.įinally I would recommend using a laptop with a USB cable to do your capturing rather than the intervalometer. You don't say what mount you are using, I suspect it's an Alt/Az mount as you are talking about rotation. So the shorter images you are suggesting are likely not to have much in them. Just letting you know for the future and I know you are just cutting your teeth at the moment. You are using a Skymax 127 Mak which is F12 which is not ideal for imaging as it is slower to capture the Photos. I know DSLR cameras have moved on a bit since I owned one, but I was always told the higher the ISO the noisier the image and I always used 800ISO. Better to take separate darks when the clouds roll in making sure darks are the same (ish) temperature as the lights.Īlso I would not use 6400 ISO.
Turn noise reduction off in the camera, it will make each image last twice as long. I was going to set the intervalometer at 20 sec exposures separated by 10 second intervals - will this work with High ISO turned on? or should i just turn off all noise reduction and deal with that in post processing? I'm assuming these settings related to all Canon DSLR's and maybe even exist on other makes too so this question might relate to many people.
I'm ok with this but don't know if doing this means i have to allow for a large interval between each shot in case the camera is taking more then one image to cancel out the noise. One video i've watched suggested turning the long exposure noise reduction off but leaving the high ISO setting on. There's a setting for long exposure noise reduction + another setting for High ISO noise reduction (which can be set to low, standard, high). My question relates to some noise reduction settings in the camera. I'll then take darks, flats, bias - i know thats not the ideal amount for a DSO but given i'm just getting started i want to find out what works - i don't know how well my tracking will hold up yet but suspect it won't be great. Intervalometer will control shots 20 second exposure for 150 odd shots. I want to get the settings sorted for deep sky objects - have done lots of internet research and here's my current understanding.Ĭamera attached to Skymax 127 Mak via T ring I've a Canon 700d and am just starting out with astrophotography (in fact i've never owned a dslr before so starting from total beginning).
Hoping someone with experience can help me out with a question.
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